EV problems & symptoms
Start from what the car is actually doing, not from a fault name — nobody searches "inverter fault", they search "my EV won't charge". Each guide gives the documented causes with their recall and investigation records, what is safe to check yourself, and exactly where the high-voltage line sits.
An EV traction battery runs at roughly 400–800 volts DC. That is lethal on contact, and unlike household AC it gives no involuntary "let go" reflex — a grip on a live conductor stays a grip. Working on it safely requires formal qualification, de-energisation, verified isolation and rated PPE (Class 0 gloves are rated to 1,000 V AC / 1,500 V DC). Everything under "safe to check" below leaves the high-voltage system alone. Everything under "qualified technician only" genuinely does mean only — it is not a liability formula.
These pages are triage, not repair procedures. The aim is that you can tell a cheap fix from an expensive one, avoid paying for diagnosis you do not need, and walk into a shop able to say something more useful than "it stopped".
Start with the symptom
How these are built
Every cause, count and recall number here comes from a citable record — NHTSA recalls and Office of Defects Investigation filings, manufacturer recall notices, and published diagnostic guidance. Where something is widely discussed by owners but not documented by a regulator, it is either left out or labelled as unconfirmed rather than presented as fact. Where the data genuinely does not exist, each page says so.
We have not driven, repaired or tested any of these vehicles. This is a compilation of public records organised by symptom, which is a different and more checkable thing than a workshop opinion.
Frequently asked questions
Can I diagnose an EV fault myself?
Partly, and the part you can do is more useful than people assume. Testing the 12V battery, trying a different charger, checking the charge port, checking your VIN against open recalls and recording exactly what the dash said are all safe, cost nothing, and frequently identify the problem. What you must not do is work on the high-voltage system: 400–800V DC is lethal on contact and needs formal qualification, de-energisation and verified isolation.
Why does the 12V battery matter so much on an EV?
Because it powers the control electronics that keep the high-voltage system energised. If the 12V is flat the car may not wake up enough to charge or to drive, no matter how full the traction pack is. It is the most common cause of an EV that appears completely dead, and it is the cheapest to fix — which is why any competent diagnosis starts there.
Are EV fault codes standardised like OBD-II engine codes?
Largely not. Emissions-related OBD-II codes are standardised, but most high-voltage and battery-management fault codes are manufacturer-proprietary. A generic scan tool will often show nothing useful on an EV drivetrain fault. We deliberately do not publish a generic EV fault-code table, because presenting one as authoritative would be misleading.
How do I know if my problem is covered by a recall?
Check your VIN against the manufacturer's recall lookup and your national regulator's database — NHTSA in the US, and the equivalent where you are. If an open recall covers your fault, the remedy is free and you should not be paying a shop to diagnose it. Do this before booking anything.
← Compare every EV & hybrid · Warranty & ownership → · EV battery health →